how far can a camel spit?

Oh my god, what am I doing? This is the craziest place on the planet. I thought of myself as a patient tolerant person, but this country is putting me to the test!

I haven't felt up to posting anything for awhile, so I cut up parts of two emails that Natalie recently sent out.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Being in a country with a social system almost completely the opposite of ours, added to the hardships of a language barrier, makes it imperative that we are clear with our words. Ambiguity leads to disappointment (as I learned yesterday at the tailor shop).

Conversly, if you don't like something, its ok to say so.

Marc and I are passive people. We tend to avoid conflict. Easygoing doesn't fly in India. Well, I should say that you must pick your battles, (because sometimes, you just cant take anything too seriously) but people here like clear instructions. Without them you will be taken advantage of. Or maybe, a misunderstanding will cause tons of problems.

While I don't like seeing animals beaten, I know that in the developing world, nobody gets a free ride. Except for cows! (I have to say here, I think the US may be the only country in the world who is as pet obsessed, but I love us all the more for it. Of course, its completely hypocritical if we continue to factory farm, but that's another can of beef altogether!)

Elephants work for their food, camels work, mules work, horses work, dogs forage and dodge sticks, and people work. Hard. Children and adults. Not an easy place to live. And its not just India. Its just that there are so many people here, and its so public, you see a lot of everything.

There is a middle class here, somewhere, working, going to school, eating dinner together. But as a tourist, we see merchants and beggars and scoundrels. Every so often we talk to a regular person and remember why we came.

Its not easy. But I think, in the end, we'll be happy we came. And it is beautiful. And we're eating very well. And I'm learning that (to my great dismay) a dry sense of humor doesn't fly in Asia, but slapstick gets em every time. (Marc is always the favorite in a likability contest between the two of us) and the caste system is awful but they're trying to change- its just that in so ancient a place change is slow going. And ayruvedic medicine really works, and cobra charmers really make snakes dance, and after squat toilets, western sit-down toilets are disgusting...

the list goes on and on.
ps. We went to a temple today dedicated to worshipping holy rats. They crawled all over and we were barefoot. They were fed cooked milk and coconut.
it really is that crazy.
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Okay, now I am feeling a bit more like talking. Right now we are staying in a thousand year old fort in Jaisalmer (http://www.flotravels.com/gifs/jaisalmer-fort.jpg). The hotel we are in is a structure called a Havelis and this one is about 500 years old. It is owned by a man whos forefathers worked for the Maharaja. the walls of the fort are the walls of our room. the staff is so kind and our resident chef is amazing. we ate a curry made from desert tree bark last night that was outstanding. The fort rises out of the barren desert like a mirage. There is trash everywhere and open sewers that occationally assault your nose. Apparently the fort is falling apart and sinking due to neglect, and over tourism, but mainly bad sewers rotting the foundation of the structure. The government does nothing to prevent this.

the coolest thing about this place is that the whole fort is living! there are thousands of people living and working in its walls still today. the streets are narrow and lined with shops. rugs, puppets, silver, antiques. dark skinned men dressed all in white, with long white (curled at the tips) moustaches and fusia turbans. gypsies are dancing outside. wow.

We have seen a few Mig fighter jets fly over head and a military base with tons of tanks, a reminder of the fact that we are under 100 miles from the Pakistan border. It is weird to be looking out from an ancient fort with jets flying overhead, a young boys dream! Indians hate Pakistan, and I guess Pakistanis are none to friendly towards Indians. Funny because not too long ago they were all Indians. Ah, the power of nationalism!

Two towns ago we were in a holy city called Pushkar (for some reason spellcheck keeps wanting to rename this town "Bushwacker"!). The town surrounds a beautiful little lake which pilgrims come to from all over to bathe in. If you thought Salt Lake City had some crazy religious laws, in Pushkar (Bushwacker) eating meat or eggs and drinking alcohol are completely banned! And while on the subject, 80% of the people in India are vegetarians. There are tons of restaurants that are "pure-veg," meaning that there is no meat to be had. It make food experimentation quite a bit easier!

So as you may have gathered, India has pushed us to the limit. We have been yelled at, grabbed, followed, had rocks thrown at us, I have been called a "dirty man," and we have been cursed with bad luck by boys young and old. In turn we have yelled, pushed, and swung backpacks at people, we have shaken people, and have become masters at the art of ignoring. India is not for the sensitive or faint of heart. Of course, we are both! But, after two months of this shit, you better watch out, no one is pulling anything over on us!

Tomorrow we set out for a 2 day camel safari in the desert. We have heard mixed reviews as to the comfort of riding a camel, but sleeping in the sand dunes sounds pretty cool.

We are very worried about the election. Everyone wants to talk to us about it. So far, of all of the travelers and locals together, only one wants Bush to win. Most men we have talked to in India like to talk about Clinton, in fact the Brits do as well. They all comment on how handsome he is! I read two articles in India news about how India is more of a democracy than the US. I am inclined to agree, even though it blows my mind and seems so backwards.